Signals & Moves

Wisdom, watches and walk-ons.

Wednesday 3rd June

Pope Leo XIV

1
Move: The Pope reframed AI using Tolkien.
In his first encyclical, Magnifica Humanitas, Pope Leo XIV explored how society should think about artificial intelligence, quoting Gandalf from JRR Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings: “It is not our part to master all the tides of the world, but to do what is in us for the succour of those years wherein we are set…”. The context is important - the characters are overwhelmed, facing forces beyond their control. Gandalf’s message is not mastery, but responsibility: Act wisely within the circumstances you have been given.
Signal: The AI conversation is becoming philosophical.
The dominant voices in AI have been technology companies and investors. Magnifica Humanitas brought philosophy, religion and ethics visibly into the discussion. The Pope reframed the conversation on AI from capability, acceleration and progress to responsibility. It’s no longer about what AI can do - but what people should do with it.
Why Tolkien? Why Gandalf?
Tolkien is described as a committed Catholic. Many scholars argue that themes in his work: humility, sacrifice, power, responsibility and duty were informed by his faith. This was not a cultural reference designed to make AI relatable, it was a deliberate choice. Pope Leo XIV chose a character loved not for his power, but for his wisdom.

2
Move: Audemars Piguet and Swatch collaborate - and cause chaos.
Earlier this month, Audemars Piguet and Swatch released Royal Pop; eight Swiss-made Bioceramic pocket watches inspired by the 1972 Royal Oak and 1980s Swatch POP collection. Starting at €385, the watches were available exclusively through selected Swatch stores. Queues formed globally. 100% of Audemars Piguet’s proceeds will support an initiative dedicated to preserving watchmaking craftsmanship and developing future talent.
Signal: Desire is transferable if mythology remains intact.
This was a classic high-low collaboration. Audemars Piguet watches start at approximately €18,000. Swatch watches start at approximately €40. Neither brand could have generated the same level of attention alone. The collaboration worked because Audemars Piguet contributed its mythology and Swatch provided the access point. What remained exclusive was the story - and the idea that watchmaking matters.
Was it worth the hype?
I’ll let you judge. Following early criticism from collectors concerned about luxury dilution, resale prices have fallen sharply from their initial highs. The quirky watches are neither limited editions nor traditional wristwatches, leading some to describe them as the “Labubu of watches”. The launch demonstrates that scarcity can create attention, but not necessarily lasting value - and must be matched by function and form.

3
Move: Naomi Osaka turned Roland Garros into a runway.
At Roland Garros, Naomi Osaka reached the fourth round for the first time in her career - and did it wearing custom “court-ure” walk on looks designed by Swiss designer Kevin Germanier. Crafted entirely from upcycled Nike clothing and layered over a gold sequined Nike dress, the looks were planned 18 months in advance and required four fittings.
Signal: The athlete entrance is becoming a brand moment.
This was not an athlete in a brand kit. It was an athlete with creative authorship. Osaka was not wearing Nike, she was interpreting it - and Nike let her. Sponsorship in sport has always been about performance: logos on shirts, rackets, courts. Increasingly, the walk-on is becoming part of the show - Osaka’s looks generated almost as much conversation as her play.
Is fashion becoming part of the sporting performance?
It would seem so. In the past week alone we’ve seen Loewe partnering with the Spanish national team for the World Cup, while Gucci expanded its presence in the Formula One paddock. What is interesting here is that Nike did not simply sponsor Osaka, it trusted her to shape the brand’s expression. In doing so, it proved that the walk-on moment may be as valuable as the competition itself.

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Noorin

Image reference: Pope Leo XIV, Getty Images.
Sources:
Vatican.va, Magnifica Humanitas, MIT Technology Review, The Pope’s Magnifica Humanitas, RNZ, Pope Leo quotes Lord of the Rings, Audemars Piguet Collaboration, CNBC Audemars Piguet’s watch prices, Gear Patrol, Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop, CNN, Naomi Osaka dazzles, Yahoo Sports, Osaka reveals latest French outfit, Formula1.com, Gucci announced, Elitetraveler, World Cup 2026.