Signals & Moves
Past, Persistance and Play.
Wednesday 2 September
1
Move: John Galliano withdraws from his planned Met retrospective.
On Monday, Galliano announced his withdrawal from “John Galliano: Horizons” a retrospective of his work planned for the Met in 2027. He said he did not want “the debate surrounding me to place the Met in a difficult position”. The withdrawal follows continued backlash over anti-sematic comments he made in 2011, which were caught on camera.
Signal: Accountability does not have an expiry date.
Galliano has spent 15 years rebuilding his career: attending rehab, apologising, meeting Jewish leaders and spending 12 years at Maison Margiela. He acknowledged that the retrospective could be “painful for some”. A retrospective is not the same as hiring someone to do a job, it is an institution recognising and rewarding someone’s work. Galliano’s decision to exit is a signal that a career can be resurrected, but not necessarily celebrated.
Can someone ever earn their way back?
Back to what? Being employed, being respected for your work and being commemorated for your legacy are all different forms of acceptance. Nobody is entitled to forgiveness simply because time has passed.
2
Move: Victoria Beckham posts her first operating profit after 18 years.
Victoria Beckham Holdings posted its first operating profit since launching in 2008. Beauty, which launched 11 years later now accounts for two-thirds of the Group. Foundation Drops, developed with Augustinus Badar, doubled skincare sales and became the brand’s second bestselling product.
Signal: Persistence does not mean sticking to the original plan.
Victoria Beckham started with fashion. Over 18 years the ambition held despite annual losses whilst the business changed around it: beauty became a source of growth and fashion was restructured. This is a story about persistence, but not an insistence on doing the same thing until it worked.
Does the biggest opportunity deserve the most focus?
Not always. Different parts play different roles. One part of a business may generate revenue, another reputation. The thing that gives you meaning does not need to be the thing that gives you money. Size does not always determine what matters.
3
Move: LEGO grows 21% as it sells more sets to adults.
LEGO reported first half revenue up 21% and net profit up 32%, outperforming the wider toy market. This success was supported by a growing range designed specifically for adults, from flowers to Star Wars sets. LEGO’s CEO Niels Christiansen has made targeting “kidults” a part of the company’s growth plan.
Signal: Play does not belong to childhood.
Toys are linked to a period society expects us to leave behind as we age. LEGO gave adults permission to keep playing by recognising that play is not a lifestage, it’s a behaviour.
When did we decide adults shouldn’t play?
We didn’t, but growing up comes with an expectation of responsibility and seriousness. LEGO realised that adults never stopped wanting to play, but perhaps they stopped believing that they were allowed to.
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Image reference: John Galliano.
Sources: JTA, Washington Post, Hollywood Reporter, FashionNetwork, Forbes, Global Cosmetics News, LEGO.com, The Brick Fan